|
|
The Grapevine
Williamson County Chapter Native Plant Society Newsletter
June/July 2007 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Upcoming Events
June Meeting June 14; 7:00 PM Georgetown Public Library
Invasive and Exotic Species by Bill Carr
Bill Carr will discuss invasive and exotic plant species. The adverse impact of these plants our native ecology has reached epidemic proportions. We will learn to recognize and identify them, as well as the reasons why they need to be eliminated.
Bill is a biologist with The Nature Conservancy of Texas, a group which is dedicated to preserving the plants, animals and natural communities that represent the diversity of life on Earth by protecting the lands and waters they need to survive." Bill received a BS in Botany from The Ohio State University in 1978 and immigrated to Texas shortly thereafter. He did statewide field work for Texas Parks and Wildlife Department from 1988 to 1995 and has worked for the Nature Conservancy of Texas since 1996. He is the author of An Annotated List of the Flora of Travis County, Texas (which was used to develop the Williamson County endemic plant list in the February/March 2007 Grapevine) and a co-author of a book on the rare plants of Texas to be published by Texas A&M University Press in fall 2007.
July Meeting July 12; 7:00 PM Sun City Pavilion
Pot Luck Dinner/Election
Bring your pot luck dish and ideas for the next year to our annual summer dinner and election. We will discuss ideas for the next year during dinner.
Directions: From US Hwy 35 – go west on Williams Drive (FM 2338). Turn right on Del Webb Blvd. Del Webb Blvd is the first stop light on Williams Drive after it goes from a four lane road with a center turn lane to a two lane road. Go on Del Webb Blvd until just past the bridge and stop light. Turn at the first left after the light into the park parking lot. The Pavilion is the covered area on the left.
From Hwy 183 – turn onto FM 3405, drive to Williams Drive (FM2338) and turn right or turn onto CR 490 and turn onto Williams Drive in Andice. Go east until you hit the first stop light (Del Webb Blvd) and turn left. Follow the instruction above once on Del Webb Blvd.
Nature Walk Our Lady of the Rosary Cemetery, Georgetown, Texas
Saturday; June 2 and June 16; 9-10 AM
Agnes Plutino has suggested that you might like to attend the Nature Walks at Our Lady of the Rosary Cemetery in Georgetown.
Directions: Take SH 29 east out of Georgetown past Southwestern University Turn Left 1.8 miles after the Golf Course at SU and just after crossing over Toll 130 (You can use the yellow stripped center turn lane to make the turn at the black metal sign for the Our Lady of the Rosary Cemetery) The Cemetery is on the Right 0.3 miles down that road The rains have extended the bloom period and there will be a guide, so enjoy!
Meeting minutes can be found on the website http://www.npsot.org/WilliamsonCounty/.
April 12 Program Notes
In April we had the opportunity to meet Carla Haskett, 5th generation Texas gardener who writes a gardening column for the Williamson County Sun. Carla grew up on a farm near Bartlett raising flowers and vegetables. She introduced her longtime friend Billy Chovanec. Billy is a Salado self-professed plant "hobbyist". He became interested in Native Plants while overseeing the reclamation of land from a mine operation. Billy gave a very amusing talk on his trials and errors in propagating native plants. He gathers seeds from all over the central Texas area and endeavors to coax them to sprout using his own homemade potting soil formula.
May 10 Program Notes
In May we had our own Jason Spangler present a slide show on Native Cacti, Yucca, and related Plants of Travis and Williamson Counties. There are two main families: Cactaceace and Agavaceace. Cactaceace has confusing nomenclature as the botanical names are changed frequently due to specialization. They are all dicots with 2 embryonic leaves and encompass 1400 species in 97 genera. Cactaceace evolved 20-50 million years ago and have adapted to store water to withstand drought. They are native almost exclusively to the New World.
The state plant of Texas in the Opunita cactus. It ranges North into Canada and can survive full sun desert to part shade. Xerophytic adaptations include areoles spines, thick waxy cuticle. They can absorb CO2 at night, reducing water loss. The Euphoria Keria insect eats the flowers, and is believed to be beneficial in fertilization. Some Local Natives include:
Coryphantha sulcata - Pineapple Cactus. Yellow bloom w/ red center. Found on grasslands and open woodlands.
Echinocactus Texensis - Horse Crippler, Devil's Head. Has a peach bloom, found on sandy or limestone soils and in overgrazed areas.
Echinocereus coccineus - Claret cup, Hedgehog. Red flower. found on rocky, limestone soils.
Echinocereus reichenbachii - Lace Cactus, Hedgehog Cactus. Dark pink to purple flowers as big as or larger than the plant. Found on shallow clayey or sandy soils.
Esobaria missouronsis - Plains Nipple Cactus, The Brain. Has peach to light green blooms. Mockingbirds love the fruit. Found on grasslands, open woodlands on variety of well drained substrates. Frequently grow shaded by Prairie grasses or shrubs.
Opuntia Engelmannii - Prickly Pear Cactus. Yellow to orange to almost red flowers. Found in pastures, on grasslands, shrublands, and open woodlands. well drained soil, along fencerows. Will grow in solid shade.
Opuntia macrorhiza - similar to above but rambles closer to the ground. Found on grasslands, prairies, on sandy soil.
Thelocactus setispinus - Fishhook or Hedghog Cactus. Has vertical ribs. Yellow bloom. Found on Blackland Praire grasslands.
Maximillaria heyderi - Little Chillies. Low growing, bright red fruit resemble chili peppers. Found in limestone soils on grasslands or dry areas.
The Family Abavaceae are monocots - one embryonic seed leaf and include Yuccas (35 species in N. America), Dasylirion and Nolina genus. Some local varieties include:
Yucca Arkansana - Visible white fibers or threads on leaves. White bell-shaped flower. Found in limestone and chalk uplands.
Yucca Pallida - similar to twist-leaf yucca, only grows in Central Texas. Found on limestone and rocky prairies.
Yucca Ripicola - Twist - Leaf Yucca. Only grows in Central Texas. Limestone soils. Most common in grasslands.
Yucca Torreyi - Spanish Dagger. Primarily grows in West Texas, Edwards and Trans-Pecos on Xeric Limestone bluffs.
Dasylirion Texana - Sotol, Desert Spoon. Primarily grows in West Texas.
Nolina Lindheimericana - Devils Shoestring. Has Tiny white flowers. Central Texas only.
Nolina Texana - Saccahuista. Grows on chalk prairies and in shallow stony clays of grasslands. Has very slender leaves.
Jason's presentation included beautiful full color photographs, many taken by his wife Lisa, showing full close up detail of each plant.
With the arrival of spring, the opportunities for outdoor activities have increased ten fold. Our Chapter offered many such chances for your appreciation of Native Plants. In preparation for the Spring Plant Sale at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center on April 13-15, hardy members gathered at Gabriel Valley Nursery to weed and ready the sale plants on a wet Friday March 30th morning.
Janet Church, Dale McQuinn, Dar Richardson, Kathy Galloway, Marilyn Perz, and Kay Sanders all turned out on a rainy Friday morning to prepare plats for sale at the April LBJWFC plant sale. Photo by Agnes Plutino.
Even though the weather remained wet and windy for the Spring Plant Sale in April, patrons and members made it our most successful sale so far. By Sunday afternoon, very few plants were left to return to Gabriel Valley Nursery. Great work everyone!
Earth Day was again celebrated at Gardener’s Paradise Nursery and our Chapter set up a booth to make recycled paper wildflower seed starters. We met many pleasant garden enthusiasts and handed out our brochures and seed catalogues from Native American Seed Company.
On Sunday April 29th, a nice group of members discovered the Heritage Gardens off of Hutto Road in Georgetown. We had identified a wildflower meadow there and had asked Natalie Vreeland, the horticulturist, to protect it from mowing. Although the Bluebonnets were finishing up, we were able to identify and label many other wildflowers. Large-flowered Buttercups, Blue-eyed-grass (even a white plant), Prairie Verbena, Thelesperma, and Clasping Cone flowers were just a few of the varieties. We broadcast many of our old seeds from our Seed Exchange board to add even more variety. Besides the wildflowers, the garden provides rental garden space and a large community garden. The woodland path along Smith Branch is still a work in progress awaiting the construction of an all weather bridge.
Heritage Garden visitors: Dennis Perz, Kay Sanders, Toya McClurkan, Judy Davis (front), and Marilyn Perz and a white blue-eyed grass flower. Photos by Agnes Plutino.
On Sunday May 20th at the Perz Property the first Celebration of Plant Conservation Day was attended by 23 rugged hikers who made two wet creek crossings and saw acres of grasses and wildflowers. The most prominent flower that day seemed to be the Basket-Flower, but I’m sure everyone found a variety of plants and wildlife to identify. Several birders even went missing for a while but did turn up in time to consume lemonade and cookies with the rest of us on the porch.
Visitors crossing the creek behind the Perz residence. Photo by Agnes Plutino.
On Monday May 21st, I was invited to join Agnes Plutino on a scouting visit to Traci Wyrick’s 10 acres in Burnet County northwest of Florence in preparation for the Fall State Symposium field trips to member’s homes. Besides her more formal beds, we toured her labyrinth of indigenous native plant with many interesting additions. We feasted on Agarita fruits and saw thickets of Eve’s Necklace and giant Elderberry plants. We then proceeded to drive the scenic backroads over to Parrie Haynes Ranch. This is a natural 4,525 acre recreation area on the Lampasas River There we saw great stands of Texas Grama and Skeleton flowers. For folks leaving the Symposium and heading north, this area would surely make a nice side trip.
Marilyn Perz and Traci Wyrick explore Traci’s labyrinth of landscaped paths. Century plant on the Wyrick homestead. Photos by Agnes Plutino.
This Spring has turned out to be absolutely incredible. We have had plenty of rain, bringing us at least temporarily out of a two year drought. The temperature has stayed fairly moderate making working outside tolerable. Also it has been great fun getting out and about exploring a few new places and revisiting wonderful old sites.
waterfall. In addition to the natural features, there is beautiful artwork. The owners of the property encourage visitors any time dawn to dusk. In addition, there will be at least two more official walks, June 2 and June 16th. Call 512-863-8411. There is no charge for these walks, either official or unofficial.
It is fairly flat and easy walking. There is more and more evidence of impending development on the site. But until that happens I’ll continue to enjoy myself. The Indian Paintbrush and Bluebonnet seed pods have pretty much split open and spilled their seed but there is still a lot of other great plants to observe, collect seed from, and dig. The Gayfeather and Penstemon Cobaea are easy to dig. The smaller the better. There is also Sideoats Grama and Little Bluestem along the southeast corner. I am trying to photograph as many plants as possible before the area goes under the dozer. A couple of interesting plants I’ve found on site is Fern Acacia (Acacia angustissima) and Ground Plum (Astragulus crassicarpus). The Fern Acacia is currently in bloom. Some of the Ground Plum has set seed. Since it’s seed pods are close to the ground, it should survive any mowing which might occur.
The one thing I do caution against is collecting from the areas taken over by Dodder. This is a yellowish, stringy, parasitic plant that will pretty much smother out anything in its way. You would not think this because it is so small. Do not let it fool you. It is especially prevalent on the slope nearest FM3406. I think it has been spread around by the vehicle tires, mowers, and yes, even some of us walking through it. I have not researched enough to say if this is a true statement.
It will be interesting to see what the rest of the summer will bring. Hopefully it will bring a beautiful fall so that we enjoy hosting the State Symposium here in Georgetown in October. Be ready to volunteer to help during the Symposium. We will have visitors from across the state and they will be looking for all the interesting natural places to visit. Let Sue Wiseman, Jason Spangler, or Phyllis Dolich know of places you find interesting and that might be of interest to those attending the Symposium.
Rivina humilis (Pigeonberry)
R. humilis is a beautiful deciduous to evergreen perennial groundcover. In the summer, it stays green as long as it receives water; otherwise it will go dormant when it is dry. In central Texas, this plant usually grows erect to 12-18” high and about one foot wide. The shiny green leaves are oblong to oval to 6” long and 4” wide, rounded at the base and pointed at the tip. Leaves will turn reddish in late fall. Spikes of 1/16-1/8” white or green to pink or rose four petal flowers appear from March to October in Texas and year round in warmer climates. The flowers are followed by 3/32-3/16” red to orange berries which enclose a 1/16-1/8” seed. Berries appear at the same time that other flower spikes are in bloom.
This plant can be propagated by seed or by cuttings. For seeds, collect berries when plump; take pulp off, spread out and allow them to dry. Direct sow the seeds in the spring or place in pots as they are dried and put in greenhouse until appropriate planting time. This plant can also be kept in the home under grow lights or in an east window until placed outside. No pretreatment of the seed is required. Seeds germinate well in about 45 days and grow slowly.
R. humilis grows well in moist sand, loam, or clay soil in shade to part shade. It tends to bloom best if it receives some morning sun. Water in the summer will assure that it will not go dormant. Little to no fertilizer is needed. Pruning is not required.
The leaves and roots of Pigeonberry are poisonous and the berries have been implicated in non-fatal poisonings. It is not a favorite browse by white tail deer and is listed as moderately deer resistant. The berries are readily eaten by birds and the leaves are consumed by javelinas. It is a host plant for Goodson’s Greenstreak butterfly. The berries have also been used to make a red dye used in cosmetics.
R. humilis does well with other shade tolerant plants such as Callicarpa Americana (American beautyberry), Pavonia lasiopetala (Rock rose), Symphoricarpos orbiculatus (Coralberry), Scutellaria ovata (Heartleaf skullcap), Aquilegia chrysantha (Yellow columbine), Salvia lyrata (Lyreleaf sage), and Penstemon tenuis (Gulf coast penstemon). Note that all of these plants can take dry shade or can be irrigated.
References:
1. Correll, Donovan Stewart and Marshall Conring Johnston, “Manual of the Vascular Plants of Texas,” University of Texas at Dallas, 4th Printing, 1996. 2. Wasowski, Sally and Andy, “Native Texas Plants, Landscaping Region by Region,” Second Edition, Lone Star Books, 1998. 3. Diggs, George M. Jr., Barney L. Lipcomb, and Robert J. O’Kennon, Shinners and Mahler’s Illustrated Flora of North Central Texas,” Botanical Research Institute of Texas, 2nd Printing, 2000. 4. Flora of North America, http://www.fna.org/FNA/ 5. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center web site, http://www.wildflower.org/ 6. USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service Plant Profiles, http://plants.usda.gov/ 7. TAMU horticulture, http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ 8. TAMU herbarium, http://uvalde.tamu.edu/herbarium/rihu.htm
Ponds are wonderful garden features. They provide an opportunity to garden with a whole new set of Texas plants and will attract wildlife as well as people. The sound of running water from a water fall is soothing and watching fish or other pond denizens is fun.
The following is general information on the design and maintenance of ponds. Most of the information for this article was provided by Steve Kainer at Hill Country Water Gardens and Nursery. Additional information can be found in the references at the end of the article.
Balanced Pond System
A healthy balanced pond is a small, self-contained ecosystem containing balanced communities of microorganisms, invertebrates, fish, and plants. Aquatic plants draw nutrients, primarily nitrates and phosphates, from the water and from the soil. These nutrients, combined with sunlight enable plants to grow and release oxygen into the water through the photosynthesis chemical process. Floating plants help shade the water to keep it from overheating and reduce algae build up. In this climate, plant coverage of 60 to 70% water surface is recommended. They also provide the fish with hiding places from predators. Fish consume the oxygen produced by the plants and feed on some of the plants keeping excessive plant growth in check. In turn, fish provide carbon dioxide, ammonia and other chemicals from their wastes. Bacteria change the ammonia from the fish into the nitrates that is used by the plants. When the numbers of fish and plants in the pond reach a stable relationship, the pond is in biological balance.
When ponds become unbalanced the health and longevity of the pond can be detrimentally affected. Too many fish in the system will over deplete the available oxygen leaving the fish to gasp for air and eventually die. Low oxygen also creates a foul smelling anaerobic environment. Too many nutrients in the pond will promote the accumulation of algae or aggressive submergible weeds to take up the nutrients. Excessive plant growth typically results in a rapid accumulation of sludge which is a combination of dead plant material and dirt that is blown into the pond. Large build ups of sludge can create low oxygen areas that become foul smelling. In addition, extensive sludge adds nutrients that promote algae growth, provides additional rooting spaces for submergible weeds and suffocates beneficial bacteria. Loss of bacteria can result in a toxic build up of ammonia which will cause the fish to sicken and die if not corrected.
Garden pond design is discussed next. For design and construction of farm ponds, see USDA Handbook 590. This handbook is also available on the internet (Reference 1). Information on farm pond ecology and pond management, go to Reference 2 and 3, respectively.
Garden Pond Design
Garden ponds should be placed in an open area away from trees or deciduous plants to prevent leaf drop into the pond. Many pond plants prefer full sun although there are a number of plants that will do well in the shade. It is recommended that the pond be placed in a location where it will be frequently seen and that there is adequate seating next to the pond.
The bottom and sides of garden ponds and waterfall flow paths are generally covered with a rubber lining. To determine the minimum size of the liner required, use the following formulas:
Liner length in feet = Maximum length of pond in feet + 2 x maximum depth in feet +3 feet
Liner width in feet = Maximum length of pond in feet + 2 x maximum depth in feet + 3 feet
The extra 3 feet allows for a 1.5 foot overlay on each side of the pond. Clay is used for ponds if a natural bottom and side is desired. In east Williamson County, local compacted clay can be used to line the pond. In western Williamson County, there is little soil and the limestone is quite porous. Bentonite which is rich in a clay mineral called montmorilloniteis, is used as a sealant for these ponds. Note that care must be taken to make sure that a clay pond does not dry out as the clay will crack and will no long hold water.
Garden ponds typically have a variety of plants with floating leaves and flowers, marginal (bog) plants, and submerged oxygenating grass plants. Plants with floating leaves and flowers include those that are rooted in the ground and those that float freely with their roots hanging down in the water. Those with floating leaves and flowers that are rooted in the ground include plants such as water lilies and lotus. Plants with floating leaves and flowers are used to shade large areas of the pond keeping it cooler in the summer and providing protection for fish. Marginal plants usually prefer 1-10” of water over the crown of the plant. To accommodate these plants, a 16-24” or more wide shelf is usually placed 8-16” deep around the non-water flow edges of the pond. This shelf can meander in and out to form deep pockets for the plants. Submerged oxygenating plants increase oxygen levels and absorb nutrients that would increase algae bloom. See the article on aquatic plants for more information.
Garden ponds may also have small native fish or goldfish. These ponds should have a depth of at least 2 feet. If Koi are to be placed in the pond, the pond depth should be at least 2.5-3 feet deep. See Pond Fish below.
Ponds in the ground are usually surrounded by boulders to hide the edge of the liner. The edge of the pond under the boulder should be higher than the surrounding ground so that water from the surrounding area does not flow into the pond. If a pond is partially or completely above ground, the surface above the ground will need to be enclosed with a support structure.
Because ornamental pond systems are not completely natural, these systems usually include components that help maintain or improve the system water. Pumps are used to move water to allow mixing of nutrients, prevent a build up of areas of stale low oxygen water and take away wastes. Pond pumps are sized by gallon/hour at one foot of lift. The size of pump needed for the pond is dependent upon the required rate of complete turnover of the water in the pond. Ponds with intensive fish populations usually need a complete turnover of the water in the pond every one half to one hour. Ponds with lower fish populations should have a turnover rate of once every hour. Garden ponds without fish should have a turnover of once every one to two hours. The following formula is used to determine the number of gallons of water in the pond:
Gallons = Average width x average length x average depth of water x 7.5
Larger pumps are required if there is more than one foot of lift. Manufacturers offer charts that break down the power of each size pump according to incremental heights.
Additional aeration is frequently provided to increase the oxygen in the system. This additional aeration is achieved through use of fountains, waterfalls, or stream rapids. Note that the pump needs to run 24 hours a day to maintain adequate oxygen in the water for the fish, especially at night, and to maintain the biological filter discussed below.
Skimmers with filters help catch surface pond debris before it falls to the bottom of the pond. The skimmer is located opposite the water inflow area to prevent stale water areas. These filters need to be frequently cleaned out especially when there is a substantial amount of debris. Today, the skimmer usually houses the pump and the optional ultraviolet (UV) sterilizer. These sterilizers use ultraviolet light to kill algae, bacteria, viruses and certain types of fish parasites which in turn helps to keep the pond clear. An automatic water fill valve can also be installed in the back corner of a skimmer to help maintain a consistent water level.
A pond overflow area is usually added to prevent water from overflowing the pond sides during heavy rain storms. The overflow area is higher than the bottom of the skimmer opening but lower than the side of the rest of the pond.
Biological filters are also recommended for ponds with fish. These filters contain a beneficial environment for ammonia converting bacteria, precluding toxic build up. Typically, an upflow biological filter is included in the waterfall. A natural biological filter can also be used. A natural biological filter is comprised of a planted bog area that filters the water before it goes into the pond. The bog areas can be up to half of the size of the pond depending on the number of fish in the pond. If a natural biological filter is used, the additional features (noted above) may be needed to provide additional aeration to the pond.
Typical Garden Pond Design
Pond Fish
Fish can be placed in the pond after the chlorine in the water has been removed. This removal can be done naturally by waiting 10 days after the pond has been filled or a dechlorinator can be used. Acclimate the fish to the water temperature of the pond for 30 minutes before releasing them.
The rule of thumb for ponds with good water turnover and oxygen is 1” of fish to 10 gallons of water. Recommended fish are hardy, fast swimming goldfish such as Comets or Shubunkins or small, native fish (see http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/landwater/water/aquaticspecies/inland.phtml). The number of fish that can be placed in the ponds should be based on their mature length. For instance, small goldfish will increase by 50% within two to three years with a maximum mature size of up to 10” within 5+ years.
Additional protection should be provided if slower moving fancy gold fish can be placed in the pond. As noted above, Koi can be placed in the pond if there is sufficient water depth; however, additional filtration and care is required for optimal maintenance. Large Koi have also been known to eat the pond plants.
Goldfish are self sufficient feeding on algae and other plant material; however you can feed them once a day with high quality fish food. Koi must be fed once or twice a day due to the fact that they don’t have stomachs and cannot store food. Native fish have differing diets; only small fish that feed on algae and plant material should be placed in the pond.
Predator Control
If there are fish in the pond, they need to be protected from several types of predators: mammals (mainly raccoons), birds (especially blue herons in this area), and some amphibians. Pond design can deter these predators. Keep the deepest part of the pond at least 2 feet deep with straight sides from the shelf. It is better if the shelf is at least 12-16” deep and completely covered with straight sided potted plants. Smaller fish tend to be less attractive to mammal and bird predators. Bull frogs will eat small fish but will not usually get all of them. Snapping turtles need to be removed (carefully).
Provide hiding places for the fish. Extensive pond coverage by deep water plants with floating leaves provides a lot of protection when the plants are growing but not when they are dormant. When the plants are dormant, other types of coverage such as sections of black PVC tubing placed at the bottom of the pond will afford protection.
Other control methods include placing leaf netting over the top of the pond, setting up a water Scarecrow, and installing a low electrical fence. Leaf netting provides a high level of security and has the added advantage of preventing leaves from falling into the pond. Many who use this method place the netting over the pond in the fall and keep it in place until the spring after dormant plants have leafed out. If netting is used, keep it out of the water or it could injure the fish. Also keep it high enough that a heron can’t spear a fish. The Scarecrow is a motion-activated sprinkler that attaches to a garden hose. When the predator such as a raccoon or heron crosses it’s path, it emits a burst of water, frightening away the predator. However, it does not deter other birds of prey that swoop down to feed such as owls and kingfishers. A low electric fence 4-6” off of the ground gives a small jolt to any creature that decides to go to the pond. This is useful for both mammals and for herons that land near and walk to the pond.
Another predator to watch is white tail deer. They will not harm the fish but they are very fond of some pond plants, especially water lilies. Planting deer resistant plants is key. (See article on Pond Plants.) Netting and the Scarecrow also help.
Pond Maintenance
Pond maintenance primarily consists of algae control, filter and general pond cleaning including leaf removal, and plant maintenance (divide/fertilize). The later item is addressed in the article on Pond Plants.
Algae Control
Three types of algae are found in ponds: floating green algae (“pea soup”), filamentous hair algae (string algae), and fuzz algae (slick green fuzz on sides of ponds). If you have fish, the later should be left undisturbed as it provides food for the fish, breaks down wastes, and increases oxygen levels. The other two algae can be controlled. Floating green algae is controlled by keeping plant like over 60-70% of the pond and by using a biological filter and, if needed, an ultraviolet sterilizer. Sometimes, a dye for the water is used to block out sunlight in early spring before sufficient plant cover is obtained. Hair algae is the most difficult to control. It can be removed by raking it out and by using barley bales. There are also chemical controls for both green and hair algae.
Cleaning
From early spring to late fall, the filter inside the skimmer should have debris removed and the filter cleaned with a water hose. This usually does not need to be done in the winter as most of the plants are dormant and the fish generally eat less. Cleaning the entire pond usually occurs in the spring. The entire pond should be cleaned once a year if it contains fish and once every two to three years if there are only plants. For this cleaning, the fish and plants are removed and the pond drained. The filters are cleaned and the sides and bottom are cleaned by spraying water and this water is then pumped out. The pond is then refilled and a dechlorinator is put into the water before the fish are placed back into the pond.
References:
Texas has a diverse set of plants that grow in or around water. These plants include floating plants which float on the top of the water with the roots hanging down in the water, rooted floating plants where the leaves and flowers float on top of the water but the plant is rooted in the soil, submerged plants that are entirely below the water line and the marginal (or bog) plants that are rooted in the soil at the margin of the pond with varying amounts of water over the root and most of the foliage above the water line. Many of these plants are documented below and a number of the documented plants are available in garden centers that have water plants or in specialty nurseries. Aquatic plants are also offered at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center spring sale.
Water plants tend to have rapid growth. Therefore, it is usually best to keep rooted plants in a pot in most garden ponds. Plastic pots are usually used in garden ponds; fabric pot are frequently used in large ponds where the fabric can break down and the plants can then root in the bottom of the pond. Pots that will always be fully submerged in the water do not need drainage holes. Holes are needed in pots that are in but not fully covered with water or where the tops are uncovered due to fluctuating water levels. Rooted plants do best when placed in heavy clay soil. Clay soil holds more water and nutrients for the plant than other soils and holds plants in place. The clay should be covered by gravel to prevent the water from getting dirty. Gravel is also a good potting medium for plants in filtration areas. Organic potting material should not be used in the pots. Organic material will decay and rot once it gets wet.
Plants in pots need to be fertilized. All rooted plants are usually fertilized in April after winter dormant water plants have emerged. Those with long, heavy bloom periods are usually fertilized once a month until they go dormant in the fall. Other plants do not have to be fertilized or can also be fertilized up to once a month. Use special fertilizer tablets made for pond plants. Other plant maintenance includes removal of dead leaves and flowers and periodic plant division.
Because of the rapid growth rate, most pond plants need to be divided every one to two years and plant division is the easiest way to these plants. Many can also be propagated by planting seed. Most plants are divided in the Spring at the same time the pond is cleaned. Floating plants tend to develop new growth on side shoots. Once this growth has roots, it can be divided from the parent plant. This can happen throughout the growing season. Hardy water lilies and lotus have a rhizome or tuber for a root. To divide a rhizome, cut off the new side eyes and throw away the spent part of the rhizome. Plants with tubers will develop new tubers are these are simply separated from the parent. Placement of the new eyes in the pot depends upon the type of plant. Odorata water lilies and lotus have running rhizomes and should be placed at the side of the pot with the growing tip facing to the center. Mexican types of water lilies have fleshy runners with tubers at the end. These tubers are planted in the center of the pot. Topical water lilies grow from a central crown and should be placed in the center of the pot. Placement of other water plants in pots is the same as water lilies and lotus, depending on whether the plant has a rhizome, tuber or central crown.
Many aquatic plants are deer resistant but some, like water lilies, are highly desired by deer. Water lotus leaves are resistant and the flowers usually are left alone. Many of the fully submerged and marginal (bog) plants are deer resistant although be careful with marginal plants with soft leaves.
Plant Details (definition for abbreviations at end of table)
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
